The Art of Snuff
Discovered in the New World, tobacco was first introduced in Europe at the beginning of the 16th century, but only in the mid-1500s smoking quickly gained popularity. In the 17th century, a pulverized tobacco for inhaling (snuff) became a fashionable custom among the nobility and upper classes at the expense of pipe-smoking. The snuff fame spread from the French Royal Court to England, Scotland, Ireland, and throughout Europe, and even as far as Japan, China and later the Russian Empire.
Apart from large silver or wood containers (mulls), which usually stood at the table at home or at public places, a pocket snuff box, which contained several grams of powder, had become a necessity. The airtight containers that had been originally intended to protect snuff from drying, became the jewelled works of art and the symbol of opulence of the upper classes.
The best craftsmen, jewellers and artisans made splendid snuff boxes out of silver, gold, white-metal, mineral stones and wood. Such fancy materials as mother-of-pearl, ivory, tortoise-shell, mammoth tooth were also widely used for the creation of this fashionable accessory.
In 18th century Europe, Parisian jewellers led in the production of luxury tabatières (snuff boxes in French). Jean Ducrollay, Joseph Etienne Blerzy, Jean-Marie Teron were the important goldsmiths of the industry before the Revolution. Paintings in grisaille on enamelled panels were set on the 18K gold and silver boxes, that were richly encrusted with precious stones. The decoration was usually complemented with borders of pearls or floral motifs.
During Napoleon’s time, the demand for precious boxes started to decline amongst the public. The boxes decorated with the Emperor's portraits or Napoleon’s monogram made with diamonds began to serve as gifts for diplomatic purposes. The pieces of such masters as Nilot & Files, Ricart, Jean-Valentin Morel are some of the most outstanding examples of that period.
In the 18th century, gold and silver snuff boxes were introduced to England by Huguenot masters fleeing France from persecution. The pieces of different shapes were chased in high relief, the lid of the box was usually engraved with monograms or scenery. The boxes decorated with carved inlays of mineral stones, such as agate, chalcedony and jade, were set with cagework mounts.
The most English prolific box-makers of that time are believed to be George Michael Moser, Paul de Lamerie, John Northam, George Hall.
Though German boxes got the fame mostly for the extravagantly large collection of over 1500 pieces belonging to King Frederick II of Prussia, it is particularly worth mentioning the Berlin boxes, which were known for their technically superb relief mosaics. Natural motifs were carved in coloured hard stone, ivory, pearl and coral and inlaid in panels of chrysoprase or jade.
Despite the numerous snuff box designs created for almost three centuries, the gold boxes, beautifully enamelled and set with intricately painted miniatures, formed a particular form of art. The Swiss gold boxes represented the pinnacle of it. Outstanding hand-painted enamel panels on the magnificent multicoloured gold base decorated with scrollwork and translucent enamels are exceptional objects of vertu and along with French, German and Russian examples are highly sought after by collectors worldwide.
By the mid-19th Century, snuff became out of fashion and replaced by more practical options such as cigars and cigarettes, nevertheless, snuff boxes continued to be desirable presents and became the sought after objects of collecting.